Anton Bruckner – Symphonie No. 6: III. Scherzo. Nicht schnell (Excerpt)
Performed by the Deutches Symphonie Orchester/Kent Nagano [Buy] [emusic]

I think I have a new favourite city. OK, I was only in Berlin for five days, three of them locked in a conference, but a free weekend offered the chance to have a little look around. What an amazing place.

The history of of the city, Prussia and Germany linger in layers everywhere – remnants of the communist Wall, graffiti left by Soviet soldiers in 1945, the grand imperial avenues of Frederick the Great.
The brand-new skyscrapers of Potsdamer Platz show how urban planning, art and architecture should work together, glistening as if freshly unwrapped. There’s a great leap forward going on in Berlin and you can sense the momentum in the air.
Still in some faded corners there are glimpses of how grim life could be in the GDR: the clattering S-Bahn station at Ostkreuz or the monotone apartments lining the Köpernickerstraße. Berlin is grungy, practical, passionate, surely the soul capital of Europe.

Earth, Wind and Fire were playing Berlin on Saturday night, but during a public transport strike the trip out to the Arena seemed a little too much hassle. A much more convenient (and cheaper) option was the Konzerthausorchester Berlin at the in the Gendarmenmarkt. An all-Germanic evening of Schubert 3, Bruckner 6 and a diaphonous cello concerto by Bernd Alois Zimmermann featuring Celeste and glass harp.
The concert wasn’t quite Mahler’s 8th at the Palais Omnisports de Bercy, (klari je suis jaloux moi), but the restored 19th century Konzerthaus, all chandeliers and marble busts of Schumann and Bach, was the perfect setting for getting back in the symphonic groove.

So, just enough time to scratch the surface… wandered around a lot, ate currywurst from an imbiss, climbed Richard Roger’s Reichstag dome. There was no time left for the Jüdisches Museum or most of West Berlin, and the Maerzmusik Festival concerts had to be missed: I guess I’ll just have to go back sometime.
