Mar
23
2009
0

Iceland: Elves or Economics?

As a riveting piece of writing, you can barely fault the article on Iceland after the credit crunch in the April edition of Vanity Fair. Michael Lewis’ feature contains anecdotes of drama and pathos, an account of a testy interview with outgoing Prime Minister Geir Haarde, as well as nuggets of wisdom unearthed before and after the crash. It’s a recommended read.

Skaters in Reykjavik in winter (Photo: Stuck in Customs. Creative Commons.)

But I worry that Lewis, in his lucid account of what went wrong in one of the richest countries on the planet, has indulged in a little amateur anthropology along the way. Take this passage, for instance, on gender relations:

“I note a slight tension at any table where Icelandic men and Icelandic women are both present. The male exhibits the global male tendency not to talk to the females—or, rather, not to include them in the conversation—unless there is some obvious sexual motive. But that’s not the problem, exactly. Watching Icelandic men and women together is like watching toddlers. They don’t play together but in parallel; they overlap even less organically than men and women in other developed countries, which is really saying something….”

And elsewhere, a passage that could have been cited as evidence of colonial arrogance in Edward Said’s Orientalism – a direct comparison of Icelanders to wild beasts:

“We assume [Icelanders] are more or less Scandinavian—a gentle people who just want everyone to have the same amount of everything. They are not. They have a feral streak in them, like a horse that’s just pretending to be broken.”

Iceland Haukadalur

Haukadalur, Iceland (Photo: taivasalla. Creative Commons)

I wonder if this tendency to describe the Icelanders as somehow “other” or “exotic” is a way (conscious or unconscious) to make VF‘s mainly American readership feel slightly better about their own economic predicament: “yes, we’re in the shit, but look at that naïve bunch of fisherfolk from a quaint country we’ve barely heard of – at least we weren’t as foolish as them”.

Lewis’ exploration of the arcana of Icelandic culture reaches its apotheosis in his account of how Alcoa needed to certify its building site in Iceland “elf-free” in 2004 before it could commence construction of an aluminium smelter. A picturesque episode, but not substantiated or sourced.

Despite a long Google search, I can’t find any reference on the web to this event, except for Lewis’ own article. Even Wikipedia’s article on Huldufólk uses Vanity Fair as its source. Lewis was probably told this story in good faith, but this is how urban myths are born.

Of course, New Zealand has also been the scene of sniggering over the supernatural – in 2002 parts of the world media picked up on a story about a taniwha (a river-dwelling monster/spirit) that stopped work on a major highway project.  The real event, as recounted in this report, was a more prosaic story of relations between a local community and a government department.

Near Akureyi (Photo: Stuck in Customs. Creative Commons)

When Michael Lewis writes about the recent economic history of Iceland, he tells a clear and compelling story. His précis of H. Scott Gordon’s 1954 treatise on the economics of fisheries is actually fascinating. His interviews with British, Icelandic and American economists are enlightening and pertinent. I just wish he’d left the elves and wild vikings out of it.

Mar
22
2009
0

Will Twitter Take off in France?

Failwhale Tricolore

En attendant l’atterrissage définitif du Failwhale* franco-français…

Using Twitter in France is a bit of a lonely experience. I only know of 2 other people in Montpellier (@jcverdie and @missexpatria) who tweet. We miss out on the fun that twitterers can have in cities like Birmingham, where a swarm of local tweeps can bounce ideas off each other, meet up and compare notes on the weather.

Twitter remains a low-profile service in France, barely known outside the media/I.T. sector (who tend to speak/understand English). On the occasion of the first Paris Twestival (February 2009), wearesocial.net estimated around 18,000 users in the whole country**.  That’s a little less than the population of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (no I hadn’t heard of the place either).

By contrast, Facebook is growing exponentially here, and its trigger point for expansion was availability in French language.  Facebook in French arrived just 12 months ago in March 2008. At that point, there were less than 2 million French Facebook users, (who were using it in English). A year later, Facebook accounts in France have grown by more than 400% to 8.6 million. Ah, the magic of localisation.

“Ne me twitte pas” by Jérôme Choain

The only real barrier I can see in France for Twitter is language. To break out of its current media/tech ghetto, Twitter’s UI, tools such as Tweetdeck, Tweetie and the rest of the ecosystem will also need to be localised in French. This will take time.

Some French commentators are sceptical: Jean-Dmitri Dewavrin at goopple thinks that Twitter can’t work in France (citing, notably a lack of SMS interactivity agreements with local operators, and an unclear utility-value proposition compared to Facebook). In addition of course, Facebook has reoriented its UI to emphasise real-time status updates – it remains to be seen what effect this has on Twitter.

Likewise Cédric Deniaud can’t see a future in which Twitter is a “mainstream” tool. Perhaps this scenario is more realistic: Twitter works best for user who are permanently connected and who can take part in near real-time conversation. By contrast, Facebook is something you can use for just 10 minutes a day. Is Twitter is destined to be social media’s equivalent of the Mac to the Facebook PC?

Tour de France

Perhaps it would take a particular event to launch the service to the wider French public. For example, the astute use of Twitter for race and team updates during the Tour de France could see user rates soar this summer.  @lancearmstrong already has almost 400,000 followers (but mostly anglo-saxon I imagine).

I see no a priori reason why Twitter can’t become a raging success here. France has a remarkably large and active blogosphere, and a strong culture of public debate and conversation. Lack of SMS connectivity in the UK and elsewhere has not prevented Twitter’s uptake (most mobile users have passed straight to mobile apps running over 3G), and the French are just as human as the rest of us – they like to talk.

*Failwhale, n. “Baleine-échouée” or “Baleine-erreur

**This is an extrapolation of the numbers from June 2008 survey by Twitterfacts, based on global growth rates for Twitter.

Mar
21
2009
0

Restoration Drama

funny pictures of cats with captions

Like most pretentious and moderately creative people I know, I’ve always wanted to write a novel.  There are a few ideas and some stubs of chapters (brouillons) lying about, but I still lack the discipline or the drive to actually complete the task.

In the meantime, this blog keeps growing, and I realised recently that in fact, this blog is my writing project.  I put far more energy and time into it than I should. I love that a few people read it and occasionally comment, but it’s really personal satisfaction of having written something that drives me onward.

cat

Which is why my database crash of October 2007 was really, really annoying – I lost all my posts from March 2006 to October 2007, including some work I was quite proud of.

Yesterday I discovered that some of my lost posts (mostly October and December 2006 and January 2007) had miraculously been saved in the Internet Archive. So with a little HTML trickery and a couple of hours work last night, I reloaded them into the blog in their correct chronological order.

It was fun to re-read some of the writing from this period, which I thought I’d lost forever. A few highlights include:

Written by Richard in: Blog | Tags: , , ,
Mar
18
2009
5

Brel vs Buenaventura

J’ai découvert cette version de Ne Me Quitte Pas à la sauce cubaine il y a quelques semaines, pendant une soirée chez un camarade de classe. C’est vachement bien fait je trouve, et l’accent colombien de Yuri Buenaventura sonne beaucoup mieux à mes oreilles que les gémissements rosbifs de Sting (dont je vous épargne ici, mais qui se trouve sur YouTube si vous vous insistez.)

Ne Me Quitte Pas, sans doute l’oeuvre le plus connu de Jacques Brel, se trouve parmi les rares chansons françaises* qui ont su s’implanter dans l’esprit anglo-saxon (à côté de Je t’aime (moi non plus) de Gainsbourg et Je ne regrette rien de Piaf).

NMQP a été réinterprétée à plusieurs repris, notamment par Nina Simone. Par contre la performance originale de Brel s’appuyait beaucoup sur son goût théatral. Voici une version qui a passé à la télé dans les années 60 (avec les sout-tîtres en anglais):

*Ouias ouias je sais Brel, c’est un Belge comme Tintin.
**Yes yes, I know I wrote this in French. There’s a first time for everything.

Mar
13
2009
0

An Update from Home: Iva Lamkum

Ever get the feeling that the torch has well and truly passed to the next generation? When we were starting one million dollars back in 2001, Iva Lamkum was still at high school.

But today, Iva is fully-fledged solo artist from who seems to be following in the lineage of New Zealand contemporaries Ladi6 and Hollie Smith. Certainly her deep-throated soul-jazz style recalls somewhat both Hollie and Ladi.

Her 2008 single Kung Fu Grip plays on Iva’s Asian heritage (born in NZ, Iva is half-Chinese, half-Samoan), and is the centrepiece of a début EP that mines consistently popular characteristics of the New Zealand scene – live old-school beats, jazz, and an organic r+b/soul aesthetic.

Auckland producer/musician Andrew Spraggon featured Iva on Turn Around, a grack from the new Sola Rosa album Get it Together. If you want to know what the insides of an Auckland DJ’s record bag sound like, take a listen over on Bandcamp:

(A sidebar note: the trombone lick on Turn Around is played by Haydn Godfrey, an erstwhile one million dollars conspirator and one of a very few young professional trombonists in the NZ. He’s currently in Chicago studying with players from the Chicago Symphony.)

Mar
10
2009
2

Discount Disco for the Downturn

“Dad, can you put on Hercules and Love Affair again?”

Is indie electro going to be the music of 2009 recession?  Building on fond memories of MGMT and Black Kids storming the summer festivals last year, it seems that slightly dark synthpop is what today’s students need while they’re applying for non-existent graduate positions. Here’s three bands that might cash in…

Emil and Friends – Downed Economy

The rather mysterious Massachussets band Emil and Friends were early on the act in November 2008, addressing financial turmoil directly in their single Downed Economy. Although you suspect that all this lamenting about the recession is just an excuse for some indie club madness underpinned with big farty synth bass lines.

Casxio

Casxio, apparently ripping up some LA club. Before it got repossessed.

Casxio – Seventeen [Unreleased]

Hailing from southern California, Casxio do a nice line in straightforward groove. Their track Seventeen is as basic as it comes, and sometimes that’s the best style when you’re so poor you have to take your disco intravenously. Anyone lucky enough to be in Austin this week can catch them at SXSW.

“We have no confidence in Gordon Brown’s quantitative easing policy”

My Tiger My Timing – This is Not the Fire (Django Django Remix)

From the Cray Brothers to the Sex Pistols, snarky London accents have a knack for expressing contempt for the powers-that-be. Despite a band-name that reeks of “scene”, My Tiger My Timing‘s debut single This is Not The Fire has the makings of a summer hit. You can hear it on theirspace or wait until April 6th to buy it. That’s if you have any money left.

Mar
08
2009
8

If France had Colonised New Zealand

An email conversation I had earlier today explored the possibility that France might have colonised New Zealand. I had little bit of fun with my limited Photoshop skills, and re-edited the email as a blog post. All the sterotypes herein are for humourous purpose only.

Notre-Dame-des-Escargots and the skyline of Nouvelle-Marseille by night

Following the declaration of French dominion in October 1839, Nouvelle-Zélande was settled by thousands of colonists called Jean-Marc and Brigitte who hailed from mainly from Poitou, Brittany and Normandy (regions that were always disproprortionately represented in French colonial emigration).

Most of the British settlers already in the islands, finding that they were now ruled from Paris, either moved to Australia or returned to Britain, where they ended up working in the textile mills of the English Midlands. (Those who moved to the Midlands got the better deal, because their descendants can now buy a decent curry).

New Zealand was divided into two “départements”, Ile-du-Nord (101) and Ile-du-Sud (102), thus becoming an integral part of metropolitan France. Great Barrier Island was commandeered in the early 1850s for use as a flax plantation worked by Parisian convicts. Today the island is an ecological disaster-area.

For colonial administrators, Nouvelle-Zélande was for many decades considered a hardship post, run by second-tier civil servants who had failed in their application for postings to Ouagadougou. A ruthless campaign of francisation was introduced: by 1900 all Maori were speaking French, except in Taranaki, where local Breton school teachers rebelled against Paris by teaching their own language. To this day, the Taranaki locals remain incomprehensible to outsiders.

Port Nicholson (Crotteville-sur-Mer) is the préfecture of the Ile-du-Nord département. Crotteville is frequented by art lovers for its UNESCO-registered 19th century cast-iron pissoirs. Their pétanque team are world champions, thanks to training in such windy conditions.

The tricouleur flies proudly over the Préfecture building in Crotteville

Nouvelle-Marseille (known to early British settlers as Auckland) is reputed to be the “largest Algerian city in the Southern Hemisphere”, and the suburb of Ponsonbie is world-famous for its Hausmann-era and Art-Nouveau apartments. A marble-domed Catholic basilica stands prominently on the North Shore, built by public subscription as penitence for the sins of rioting citizens committed during the Great Camembert Shortage of 1887.

British plans to build a city called “Christchurch” were rapidly abandoned, but today Lyttleton and Akaroa are linked by government-subsidised trams.

Nouvelle-Zélande has become a popular holiday destination for French celebrities. Catherine Deneuve lives 8 months of the year in her luxury villa in Wakatipu-les-Bains (formerly Queenstown), a resort that hosts the Cannes film festival in alternate years and is famous for exorbitant real estate prices, industrial-scale skiing and several Michelin-starred restaurants.

The Pont Mitterand and the Monts du Kaikoura in Ile-du-Sud (viewed from l’Ile-du-Nord)

A few Scottish settlers chose to stay on in the south of Ile-du-Sud département under French rule, and today many of their descendants work in the world’s southernmost Peugeot factory in Sainte-Marie-des-Etudiants (formerly Dunedin).

Travel time from Sainte-Marie-des-Etudiants to Nouvelle-Marseille has been reduced to less than 6 hours thanks to a TGV line that crosses Cook Strait via the world’s longest suspension bridge, the “Pont Mitterand” (built in the 1980s as a magnificent but misguided gesture of state interventionism by the central government in Paris, and whose construction was characterised by strikes, budget over-runs and the arrest and conviction of local government officials for accepting under-the-table payments from contractors).

A TGV-NZ zooms past Mont Ngauruhoe

The seas around Nouvelle-Zélande are all fished out, and almost all food is imported from France, due to dirigiste agricultural policies in the 1970s and EU subsidies which led to the entire country’s production being converted to sugar beet and Roquefort cheese. The US tariff on Roquefort introduced by George W. Bush has hit the economy of Nouvelle-Zélande very hard.

Due to the need for imports and the compulsory adoption of the Euro, the cost of living in Nouvelle-Zélande is exorbitant. Regular strike action by local unions complaining about living costs bring few concessions from President Sarkozy in Paris. Marlborough vineyards (Côtes de Wairau appellation controlée) constitute 80% of the territory’s export revenue. The speed limit on the roads is 130km/h. Hawkes Bay is uninhabitable due to a massive accident at the Cape Kidnappers nuclear power plant in 1978.

Over 160 years, Nouvelle-Zélande has developed its own distinctive French-based Creole, mixing Normand dialect and Breton words with borrowings from a defunct Maori language and possibly some English terms derived from early trading contact with Australia. French is the language of education, commerce and government, but local inhabitants speak Creole at home when baking tartiflette or sitting down to a 4-hour Sunday lunch (the shops are closed on Sundays, so everyone gets together for a family meal).

Nouvelle-Zélande is really really rubbish at rugby, regularly losing to the Italians and Argentinians. But the inhabitants don’t care: they are experts at shrugging.

Written by Richard in: france,New Zealand | Tags: , , ,
Mar
07
2009
1

Knee-Deep

Yesterday and today, everything began to fall into place. Last night was a soirée à thème with my classmates. We shared food from each others’ countries. I failed to learn how to dance salsa, and we laughed. On the ride home, I realised I hadn’t thought in English all night.

Today dawned wide and blue, and I joined up with some French friends for a walk in the hills. Driving north, the low rolling garrigues of scrubby low vegetation and nude brown vineyards gave way to the more substantial décor of the Cévennes.

We arrived at Saint-Laurent-le-Minier, and discovered that nobody had brought a hiking map. So we set off into the village to ask someone where the good walking trails were. Coming across a bunch of teenagers playing football beside the war memorial, one of them (who apparently works at the Mairie) advised us that “C’est beau partout” and pointed us in the direction of the trailhead, which (as in nearly every French village) is next to the cemetery.

Knee-deep in dead leaves we climbed up from the valley through a dead winter forest. Occasional colour flashed in the brown landscape to signal the coming spring: a butterfly warmed itself on a wall; bluebells pushed through the iron-rich schist beside the path.

We arrived at Les Falguières, a corps de ferme overlooking the valley of the Vis, 500 metres above the village. Seated on logs next to the abandoned farmhouse, we ate a casse-croûte of dried apricots and thermos tea. Like all naïve city folk, we chatted idly about the impracticalities of renovating the ruin, but all agreed that it would make a great holiday home.

Silence seeped up from the valley floor. Jets traced lines in sky. Far to the east sat Mont Ventoux, discreet on the horizon, its snowcapped summit announcing Provence. Packing up our snacks and starting down the winding forest road that led downhill to the village and our car, I thought “Yes, I could get used to this.

Mar
07
2009
2

At Home With Charles Mingus

A short post is often a good post. Here’s some rather extraordinary footage of Charles Mingus playing with his daughter and being interviewed in the 1960s. The next day he was evicted by the police from his apartment:

The film is Thomas Reichmann’s Mingus: Charlie Mingus 1968.

Mar
02
2009
1

Owls, Goons, Mousephones, Robots, Mint Chicks. And Billy the Mountain.

This is the new video from The Mint Chicks for their song I Can’t Stop Being Foolish – discovered via a tweet from Paul Capewell earlier today.

The song is so-so, but the video’s great (if necessary, watch it with the sound turned off). Robots, mousephones and rainbow-powered jet-owls. What’s not to like?

It occured to me rather simultaneously that this sort of surreal humour is often greatly appreciated by musicians.  One thinks immediately of Frank Zappa (most of his oeuvre could be classed as an extended audio-cartoon – check the film Baby Snakes his 20 minute mini-operas Greggery Peccary and Billy the Mountain), or even Spike Jones.

However, it was The Goons who took musical surreality to its illogical height.  The Ying Tong Song reached #3 in the UK pop charts in 1956 – quite an achievement for a sound experiment involving differential tape speed and extensive use of foley:

Music was always an integral part of The Goon Show, with regular interludes by Max Geldray and his Orchestra and the Ray Ellington Quartet. However many of the best pieces of humour in the stories themselves were also musical (or sonic, at least).

When needing to cover the sounds of a ransacking while searching for the dreaded Tuscan Salami, Hercules Grytpype-Thynne (played by Peter Sellers) famously pulled out his leather euphonium:

“GRYTPYPE-THYNNE: He’s gone, He’s gone. Quick. Rifle his desk, photograph the plans of the male salami, telephone the Kremlin and mind that bust of Queen Victoria.

MORIARTY:Right.

GRYTPYPE-THYNNE: Meanwhile I’ll play two quick choruses of “When I’m Cleaning Windows” on my leather euphonium just to cover any noise, now get going.

MORIARTY: Right.

[FX: Hammer blows, sawing, breaking glass etc over Moriarty's grunts and Grytpype-Thynne impersonating a leather euphonium].”

In a different episode, the Goons ran off to Daytona Beach to attempt a new land speed record in a fifty-tonne brass-bound Wurlitzer, with all the appropriate musical sound-effects, (and a few subtle “organ” jokes).

It’s possible that in this video-centric society that we live in today, the art of surreal musical comedy has been blunted or supplanted by other forms. But you can still download the Goons on mp3, and appreciate any number of intricate Looney Tunes soundtracks via YouTube

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