
If you spent a couple of days in Helsinki as a tourist, the city might well seem a little austere… the imperial Russian architecture of the central city with its wide, windwsept boulevards are a real contrast to the cosy, canal-side ambience of other Nordic capitals like Stockholm and Copenhagen.
I was lucky enough to be staying with friends who live locally, who showed me a different side of the city, despite the overcast rainy weather. If you know where to go, Helsinki is quirky, friendly and just slightly surreal.

The central city is very compact, but the suburbs stretch for miles in all directions… Helsinki really only started growing in the late 1960s, and intelligent city designers have interspersed housing with parks and an extensive network of cycle tracks. Getting around by bike is a breeze.

Cycling into town on Saturday morning we came across a most un-Finnish sight… an American football team practicing in a park in Kumpula.

On Sunday we took the ferry to the fortress island of Suomenlinna and I tried out a traditional Finnish game called Möllky, which (unsurprisingly for a country which is mostly covered in trees) involves throwing a bit of wood at other bits of wood.

Unfortunately, some of the best Helsinki experiences couldn’t be caught on camera. There are DEFINITELY no photos from Mari and Jacob’s sauna!
And unfortunately it was too dark in Siltanen (a bar on Hämeentie near the centre of town) to document one of the weirdest nights out I’ve ever experienced… the entertainment included a DJ in Native American headdress telling us all to play football in the afterlife, a novelty folk duo from Jyväskylä singing about buying pot plants, an apparently-very-famous Finnish movie star performing karaoke to classic early 70s rocksteady records, and a nostalgia DJ who played Finnish disco hits. Apparently the words to the Finnish version of “I Shot the Sheriff” translate as “I’m taking the train to Mikkeli“. Well, I don’t know about Mikkeli, but I’d like to be back in Helsinki one day soon.
