Oct
31
2010
0

Autumn Interlude

Today I visited Saint-Germain-en-Laye, a town on the western outskirts of Paris, at the end of the RER A.

St-Germain-en-Laye was the site of a royal palace, and was the birthplace of Louis XIV (the building where the birth took place is now a restaurant).  James II of England washed up here after he was exiled for being Catholic, and the town was also the birthplace of Claude Débussy.

But alongside all this history, the royal terrace in the palace grounds offers a wonderful view of the Paris region, which today stretched out under bright sunshine, skyscrapers on the horizon with the Eiffel Tower and Sacré Coeur standing proudly to either side.

The royal vineyards have recently been replanted in pinot noir, and offer an interesting foreground for a view of the France’s main business hub at La Défense – a horrible place to work in, but quite attractive when seen from a safe distance at the weekend.

The forest at Saint-Germain-en-Laye is the former royal hunting ground for the palace. Today it no longer gives much of an impression of wilderness, criss-crossed as it is by railway lines and roads, but neverthless offers a large and welcome green space on the edge of Paris, turning orange and brown as the season advances.

Written by Richard in: france,paris | Tags: , , ,
Oct
31
2010
0

Twilight Zone

Travelling for business is a curious activity. Not only do you do a full week’s work, but it must be carried out in 15 different places: trains, airports, taxis, hotel rooms, aircraft and conference hall lobbies. Last week it was Spain. This week it was Germany and Norway. Next week it’s England.

Somewhere along the line, summer has turned to autumn, European daylight saving has ended, and some Chilean miners have been rescued, but this is all just low-level background noise compared to the constant paranoia of missing flights or leaving your passport on the back seat of a taxi.

The paranoia doesn’t quite stop when you get home either… on Saturday morning, I woke up wondering what time my flight was, and asking myself why there were people speaking French in the street outside my window. It took me fully ten seconds for my half-asleep brain to realise I was in my apartment in Paris, and I the furthest I would have to travel that day was down the street to the supermarket.

There are compensations, however. Even travelling within Europe, one does get to see an inordinate number of sunrises and sunsets from plane windows.


Sunrise over Norway, this week.

The camaraderie of the office is replaced by endless games of “phone tag” as colleagues chase your voicemail messages across the continent, always returning your messages while you’re in the air or in a meeting. Finding internet access and synchronising email becomes an almost monastic ritual.

The more I travel, the fussier I get. On planes, I prefer window seats: people won’t be pushing past me to go to the bathroom, and that aisle seat only offers marginally faster exit times at the end of the flight. And besides, the view out the window offers at least some kind of distraction if the document I’m reviewing becomes too boring.

Hotel rooms too, become objects of obsession: for me, ease of internet connection and the availability of an ironing board in the room are current criteria for judging the excellence of a hotel. I’m sure in a few months time, this will change: perhaps breakfast will be my next bugbear: German and Norwegian hotels do well, but Spanish and Greek hotel breakfasts are just weird. I mean, ice cream and chocolate cake? For breakfast?


Sunset over Barcelona, last week.

So if my blog posts seem few and far between at the moment, be assured it’s not for lack of will, but simply lack of time. For the next few months at least, I’m more likely to be 30,000 feet over the North Sea, munching on a Lufthansa cheese sandwich, or dialling in to conference calls from a hotel in Birmingham, or mangling my limited Spanish into a phrase to ask a Barcelona taxi driver for a receipt.

Written by Richard in: Europe,Travel |
Oct
28
2010
0

The Last of the Medici

One of the best Brian Sewell clips, ever. It’s from his documentary series Brian Sewell’s Grand Tour.

Written by Richard in: Europe,Travel,video | Tags: , , , ,
Oct
22
2010
1

Rollervard Saint Germain

Coming home tonight from a concert of Senegalese sacred music (a last minute proposition by Klari, merci encore une fois!) at the Cité de la Musique, I encountered a large crowd blocking boulevard Saint Germain, outside Les Deux Magots. There were police and ambulances, flashing lights and plenty of angry motorists sounding their horns.

Uh oh, I thought, the lycéens are back on the street and the 6th arrondissement is going to be cut off for the rest of the evening… however the truth was soon revealed, as a squadron of police motorcycles set off down the boulevard, stopping traffic and letting the crowd of hundreds zoom off down one of Paris’ most elegant streets… on rollerblades.

This is one of the reasons I love this city. Earlier in the week, the region was paralysed through lack of petrol and there was rioting in some of the suburbs. And yet tonight, a hundred police turned out so that Parisians could rollerblade through central Paris…

Written by Richard in: france,paris,video | Tags: , , , ,
Oct
16
2010
7

Caen – then and now

As a follow up to the previous post, and by popular demand, here is the engraving of St Etienne de Caen and the photo I took of it – almost 200 years and 5 generations separate these two images!

Written by Richard in: Europe,france,Travel | Tags: , , , ,
Oct
12
2010
2

A Rainy Day in Caen

If posts have been few and far between, it’s because work has been very busy… I did however manage to spend some time in Normandy with my sister and her boyfriend a couple of weekends back. While they explored the D-Day beaches, I caught a train from Bayeux into Caen, to chase down a church that was sketched by an ancestor of mine in the 19th Century.

John Sell Cotman (who, I am told, is my great-great-great-uncle, or something like that), undertook three tours of Normandy from 1817 to 1820, sketching many of the notable ancient buildings of the region. It was quite a significant journey for a provincial English artist in the 19th Century – he travelled by ship from the south coast of England, and made his tour of Normandy by postal coach. The results of his tours were published in a book of engravings in 1822.

Chateau de Lillebonne (Seine-Maritime) by J.S. Cotman

I have one of the engravings, and it turns out my engraving is a depiction of the church of St Etienne de Caen, which is the abbey church founded by William the Conqueror in the 11th Century, and it also houses his tomb. During the Battle of Normandy, when Caen was almost completely flattened during weeks of bitter fighting between German and British forces in July 1944, many of the townspeople sheltered in the church for days at a time, and the building survived the battle largely unscathed.

On my way back to the train station, I bumped into the local Caennais, taking to the street to protest the Sarkozy government’s retirement reform plan. It was a Saturday march, so there were many families marching, alongside the usual union members. Despite the rain, the protestors seemed determined to send a message to Paris that they value their acquis sociaux

Written by Richard in: france,People,Travel | Tags: , , , ,

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